Simply tweak that, and you'll be good to go.Īnyways.more detail than you probably wanted. The names and logos marked with a symbol in this users manual. It's possible if you're on a super steep hill (such as in the woods), you'd be below that threshold. To find your target heart rate zone, you need. Autopause has a minimum speed threshold (which I honestly find too fast, so I lower it even further). I wrote a bunch about it here in this post, including pictures of how it all works.Īlso, a quick note on autopause (it was mentioned above) - you can easily tweak its default settings. If you don't tell it to do so, then it'll basically show that you've only gone a few hundred feet (GPS variances). But some applications (Sport Tracks), will use the GPS speed first, and then not use the cadence speed sensor until specifically told to do so. Most applications (Garmin Connect, GTC, Training Peaks), pickup the speed sensor and use that data. In one data stream you have the GPS data points (coordinates), and in a secondary data stream you have the distance as reported by the sensor (timestamps are then used to determine actual speeds). This is due to the way the data files are recorded.
The reason being that without doing so you'll see some applications that don't support having two concurrent streams of speed data.
Get on the bike and have a helper push you until the valve stem returns to its lowest point. It's somewhat important that you do shut off the GPS when indoors on a trainer. Roll the wheel until the valve stem at its lowest point close to the ground, then mark this first point on the ground.
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